Sparaga cooks up a tasty, compelling portrait of one man's attempt to create an "institution" among the highly competitive field of New York restaurants. In a city where dining traditions reach back as long as two centuries, Charles Devigne strives to both pay homage to the beloved Gino's and make Pescatore a home for lovers of Italian food, old and new. Devigne is a fascinating character -- an artist in more than one sense of the word -- and he gambles big in this story. Sparaga's skillful interviewing evokes passion and laughter from his subjects, and he weaves a strong story arc which has us rooting -- and worried -- for Devigne and his plans. The ending was both surprising and oddly satisfying.

Something for everyone. Like documentaries? It's a well crafted one with a great arc. Like food? Be tantalized by the secret sauce recipe and make a list of must-visit restaurants in the big apple. Like New York? This story and these people could only be from there. Like jazz? John Pizzarelli cameos! Like to harken back to a simpler time? Lots of great nostalgia name-dropping A-list musicians from the 60s and 70s. Like a scrappy underdog? It's got one. Like design makeovers? You'll be biting your nails waiting for the big reveal. Like shouting advice to the protagonist? Lots of opportunities for that (but please be considerate of your neighbors!) You can't miss with this film.